Add DIY LED Footwell Lighting to Your Car for About $20
April 1, 2012 – 4:50 pm
These days everyone is offering a thousand different options and accessories with new cars. One of the cool ones offered by Mazda when I bought my car was the LED footwell lighting. I though it was pretty cool and when I was given a Nissan Cube as a rental, it was literally the only thing I liked about the car. Problem was Mazda was charging $200 to install it for me. Screw that, I can buy a few LEDs and do it myself. And since I wasn’t able to find a good write up on how to install the footwell lighting so I decided to do my own.
All my parts are from Radio Shack except the Add-a-Fuse which was from Autozone. Total cost was less than $20.
Parts:
– LEDs: Buy however many you want. I bought four high intensity blue LEDs. Just note what kind of voltage they take
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Add-a-Fuse: Bought this from Autozone a long time ago. Wasn’t able to find it again but Amazon has some.
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10A Fuse
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Wires
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Solder & Soldering iron
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Electrical tape
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Basic understanding of DC circuits (Really just know that V = IR)
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Wire connectors: I used about 8 of these http://www.amazon.com/Solderless-Wire-Quick-Splice-Connector/dp/B0041PF5QY
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Old car charger that you’re done with
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Resistor: Resistance will depend on the type of old charger you have. I used a 100ohm resistor
Step 1 – Figure out what the voltage of your car charger is.
This can be done two ways. It might be written on the charger and your life is easy. If its not, cut the end of the cable and you should see that inside there are two cables, one red and one black. Strip these so you have some leads to play with.
Plug the charger into your cigarette lighter and use your voltmeter to read the voltage. Mine spit out 5V.
Step 2: Add resistance
Using my vast knowledge of electrionics, I figured I needed to drop two volts in order to not over power the LEDs. My LEDs were rated for 3.2-4V at 20mA. To be safe, I figured I’d run them at 3V, so doing the math
(5V – 3V) = I * R
2V = 20mA * R
R = 100 ohms
So I dug through my resistors and found one that was rated for 100 ohms.
Take this resistor and solder it to the red wire from the charger. I also soldered some really long cables to run to the stripped ends of the charger after adding the resistor (Sorry, no pics of this part)
At this point, my setup looked like this
CHARGER ———Black———>Soldered to new cable to extend range——————————————-> exposed lead
|——-Red———->100ohm Resistor——> Soldered to extend range—————————-> exposed Lead
Step 3: Prep the LEDs
Pretty simple, give the LEDs some wire for you to work with. Remember the anode is +. This is the long end. The short end is Negative.



I bought two types of LEDs because I wasn’t sure what was better. Turns out they’re almost the same.

What I ended up doing was putting one LED on a really long pair of wires connected directly to the charger. I then spliced into these wires when installing the other three. I recommend this approach, its easier I think.
Once you have at least one LED connected up to your charger I recommend resting it in the cigarette lighter to make sure it works.
Step 4: Add-a-Fuse
Add-a-Fuse is a pretty cool thing. Plug it in in place of a fuse and you now have a 12V power source at the rated Fuse amperage. I chose the 10A heater because its almost summer so if that breaks I won’t orry too much for a while. Additionally, the charger is designed to be plugged into a cigarette lighter which runs at 10A also.

Sidenote:
I’ve had a radar detector plugged into the heater fuse for almost a year now with no issues. Went through winter without having heater trouble. These LEDs are only pulling 20mA each which should’nt be an issue for the system but if anyone has reason to suspect that it will, let me know.
The purpose of the charger is to take care of the excess current. Initially I had a 470 ohm resistor dropping the 12V to 3.5V but at 10A it got so hot it melted the solder. Do not recommend. You could get a power resistor but you need to drop something like 99W and I didn’t have anything like that around, so I just bummed off of Motorola.
Anyway, the Add-a-Fuse will give you a wire with a +12V charge on it. To use this, connect it to the metal tip of the charger and ground one of the springy rings on the side. Hopefully this picture will help.

There is a bolt in that little compartment that can be used to ground things.
Step 5: Run the wires
Like I said earlier, I wired one LED to a really long cable first then spliced into it three times for the rest of them. So I took this first LED and ran it down through the fuse box to the footwell area, then behind the center console onto the passenger side. Its tough getting it through the tiny opening to the passenger side but it can be done. Heres proof.



Step 6: Add the other three LEDs
Now that you have a +3V and ground wire running across the entire car, take your wire splicers and connect up the other three LEDs around where you think they belong.
It should end up looking something like this on the passenger side


And something like this on the drivers side


Step 7: Clean up
Now that everything is in the right general location, find a place to tape the LEDs down. Heres where I put them.
Passenger Side

Driver Side (Hard to see, but they’re in the top right and left corners)

Now that they are in place tape up the wires so they’re not in the way of anything. This is a little tricky. Make sure you fully depress the clutch and gas to make sure they won’t be hitting anything when you start moving. I had to rewire everything on the drivers side because I did not think of this at first.
And you’re done!



Questions or recommendations to improve are welcome. These will turn on when you turn the key enough to activate AC/Heat. They won’t turn on with the room lamps, thats for another day.
-Amir
